Climbing

Slings

and

Runners:

What

you

need

to

know!

Maybe you’ve already asked yourself what you can use slings for. The better question to ask, though, would be what you can’t use them for because they’re so incredibly versatile. Whether you want to be extra safe while climbing or are looking to efficiently organize your climbing gear, slings make it possible. On top of that, it’s an essential piece of equipment for the following:

• Creating a belay anchor: Connect several fixed anchor points to create a safe belay point when multi-pitch climbing.

• Personal anchor: Use slings to tether yourself to a piece of protection or an anchor when moving between belay stations, and during breaks.

• Mobile anchor point: When running out of bolts while alpine climbing, slings can be used to create an anchor point.

• Resting: Allows you to rest comfortably by firmly holding you in place on the via ferrata.

• Extendable alpine quickdraws: A sling measuring 60 or 90 centimeters can be used to build an extended alpine quickdraw in order to improve rope run on zig-zagging routes.

Slings can serve a multitude of purposes – but there is no universal sling for every single situation. That’s why every complete set of climbing equipment includes a wide variety of slings in various lengths and materials.

What is the ideal sling length?

The length of the sling determines what you can use it for when climbing. So you need to know exactly what length fits your requirements. Typically sling lengths can measure between 60 to 180 cm. Here’s a general summary of the most common lengths and their uses:

• 60 centimeters: Whether in crag or via ferrata climbing, a 60-centimeter sling will effectively secure you. It can be used as personal tether and for creating a mobile anchor point on bottlenecks or other natural anchor points like small rocks. Additionally, a 60 centimeter sling can be quickly tripled up by using two carabiners ↗ to create an extended alpine quick draw.

• 80 centimeters: An 80 centimeters long sling is perfect for alpine quickdraws and allows the rope to run even more easily. You’ll also need this length to create a mobile anchor point around bigger sections of rock.

• 120 centimeters: You should always opt for a 120 cm long sling when you’re looking to create a belay anchor. Whatever the conditions of your chosen spots, this length gives you plenty of options to make it work. And if it happens to be too long, you can simply tie it off. While this type of sling is usually too long to be used as a personal tether, it’s certainly a great choice for abseiling.

• 180 centimeters: These extra long slings are regularly used for anchor building application, for example around very big ledges, as well as for creating a belay anchor from three fixed anchor points.

You may have noticed that choosing a sling requires a certain level of climbing know-how. When multi-pitch climbing you should be aware that most professionals actually recommend using a clove hitch and locking carabiner as a personal anchor. If you're not familiar with those terms, we definitely recommend taking an alpinism course.

What sling to use when?

Most slings and runners are simple in their construction. As the name already implies, essentially it’s nothing more than a band that’s been sewn together to form a sling. Additionally, there are other specialty slings that can be either bought as is, or made on-the-go by yourself.

As slings are made from static material, you should never apply dynamic weight when using them.

What sling do I need for anchor building?

As already mentioned above, a 120 centimeter long sling ist most commonly used for this by connecting it to two carabiners with a special knot called bowline on a bight. If you can’t be bothered with the knot, you can rely on our Mammut Belay Sling 19.0 which already comes with the knot sown in – meaning you’ve got the ideal sling for the job right at hand.

Before you hit the big wall, you should definitely find out the current recommendations and best practices for creating anchors and more (e.g. from your local alpinism club). Depending on your level of experience or expertise, it might even be worth taking a course on the subject to cover all bases.

How do I make an alpine quickdraw?

Extended quickdraws ↗ have become the norm in alpine climbing as they improve the run of the rope, and reduce rope ↗ drag. If you want to make your own alpine quickdraw, you’ll need two carabiners ↗ and a sling measuring 60 or 90 centimeters. By the way: Our Mammut Journal ↗ also features an in-depth guide on what carabiners you need for climbing ↗. Here’s how it works:

• Clip one carabiner onto each end of the sling.

• Holding both carabiners in your hands, thread one of the carabiners through the other.

• Now clip the carabiner you’ve just passed through the other carabiner in the resulting loop of slack and pull the carabiners apart. There should be three threads of rope running through each carabiner – and just like that, you’ve made your own quickdraw!

Mammut’s alpine trad sling is an innovative solution for alpine quickdraws. Thanks to the already sewn-in loops you can quickly connect your carabiners and create a single-strand construction – making it even easier to extend or shorten your quickdraw compared to using a regular sling. Moreover, this type of method reduces the risk of carabiner or rope accidentally coming undone.

If you’re all about ready-made solutions, you can simply get yourself a quickdraw that’s instantly ready to use, like Mammut’s Sender Wire 60 cm Quickdraw with integrated carabiners.

What kind of sling materials are there?

When choosing slings, you’ve essentially got two materials to choose from: Polyester or Dyneema. There is no clear winner – both offer everything you need to make it to the top:

• Polyester slings are a staple in alpine climbing, not least because they are comparatively cheap. Typically they’re slightly wider than Dyneema slings, measuring 16 to 20 millimeters. Because of the matte surface, knots made with these slings are particularly robust and secure.

• Dyneema slings have only been around as recent as the late 1990s. They are very lightweight and narrow, usually measuring between 6 to 10 millimeters. Because they have a very smooth surface and only little friction, you should take extra care when tying knots and additionally secure them to prevent slipping – which tends to happen once forces above 2 kN are applied to the sling.

If you’re just starting out climbing, polyester slings are a solid and safe choice. Dyneema slings, on the other hand, have a higher load capacity at exactly the same weight, and a smaller diameter – which makes them ideal for adventurous sport climbing, multi-pitch climbing, and alpine tours.

How are slings constructed?

Slings can be constructed in two ways: They can either be sewn or seamless.

• The classic sling is made from flat tubular webbing. The base is a flat band which is then carefully sewn up into a round sling. Its tried-and-tested durability makes it a great companion for when you’re on the wall.

• Our Mammut Contact Sling 8.0 is a super lightweight and compact sling optimized for maximum performance. Thanks to its high-strength band material and contact sewing technique, the handling is super smooth despite the seam area.

• A whole new construction technique is used for seamless slings like the Magic Sling 12.0. It consists of a rounded Dyneema core with an abrasion-resistant outer coating, making for an extremely durable sling – entirely without load-bearing seams.

The specialized construction of the Magic Sling 12.0 provides improved knot strength compared to traditional slings. The core-plus-coat construction featuring a load-bearing core and protective coating also makes these types of slings much more resistant to UV-damage, as well as ensuring tensile strength is retained throughout, even in close contact with rough edges and rocks.

When should I replace my climbing sling?

We know it’s not exactly the answer you’ve been looking for, but: It depends. The durability of any type of climbing equipment ↗, just like slings, can greatly vary and depends on the material, usage, and a number of environmental factors. As a rule of thumb, the lifespan of a sling is 3 to 10 years, providing there are no visible signs of wear and tear. Make sure your slings are never exposed to UV rays, and regularly check for abrasions. Also pay attention to the manufacturer’s instructions: Every single textile that’s used to keep you safe while climbing (including, for example, climbing harnesses) does have a maximum life span, as the material becomes porous over time, regardless of how much or little it’s being used.

Chemicals are the death of slings as they can seriously damage their structural integrity, even when there are no visible signs of damage. Solvents or acids should be kept far away from your equipment.

Like with other types of ropes you should never underestimate the dangers of melting caused by friction. Never directly attach yourself to a sling when abseiling, and never clip a sling into a carabiner with a running rope.

Deepen your knowledge

Now that you’ve gotten a first insight into the wonderous world of slings, you’ll probably find it a lot easier to choose the perfect slings and runners for your favorite climbing activity. Nonetheless, make sure to check out our Stories and Guide ↗ and other reliable, trustworthy sources to gain a deeper understanding of how slings work. On top of that, you’ll find everything you need to add to your climbing equipment at Mammut. Whether clothes for rock climbing and bouldering, climbing pants or chalk, we’ve got plenty of helpful advice and products to offer the best possible support for all your climbing endeavors.