What are Approach Shoes? – A Buyer's Guide
11/2024
If you want to make the most of your climbing experience, you won’t get around buying yourself a pair of approach shoes. After all, getting to the starting point of your route is not exactly a casual walk in the park. We’ve got all the tips you need to find your perfect pair of approach shoes, and be perfectly prepared for your next via ferrata. Let’s go!
What are approach shoes, and what makes them different?
Approach shoes are a special type of footwear that will safely and comfortably take you all the way from the parking lot – or the closest bus stop – to the starting point of your route. Usually they are robust shoes, typically mid-high, which combine all the benefits of hiking shoes ↗ and climbing shoes in one. Thanks to the material, approach shoes offer perfect grip on rocky terrain, while providing the necessary stability and foothold on gravel and wooded trails. In short, they’re the perfect allrounders – and an essential piece of your climbing equipment ↗ to support you every step of the way to your climbing route. But before we get to the heart and sole of the matter, let’s take a look at the key features the ideal approach shoe should have:
Non-slip sole: The way to your climbing route is often likely to be challenging. A non-slip sole made of a sticky rubber composite will provide a solid foothold on rocky and uneven terrain – allowing you to move much more quickly, while not having to worry about slipping.
Climbing zone: Top-level approach shoes come with a so-called climbing zone. This tread-free part in the toe area and around the edges of the shoe gives you additional friction – and a better foothold.Â
Hard sole: The sole of approach shoes should be relatively stiff to ensure secure footing even on narrow ledges.
Special closure mechanism: Like hiking shoes, approach shoes come with lacing that goes all the way down to the toes, allowing you to perfectly adjust them to the shape of your foot.
Low upper: Approach shoes are usually mid-high shoes, giving you more freedom of movement when climbing.
Low weight: As you’re eventually changing from approach shoes into climbing shoes, make sure they’re made out of lightweight materials to not add too much extra weight to your climbing backpack ↗.
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Approach shoes vs hiking shoes
The big question: Can you actually use hiking boots as a substitute for approach shoes? While approach shoes are designed for use on uneven terrain and for casual climbing, hiking boots are made for longer treks. Comfort and flexibility are key, which means hiking boots tend to be clunkier and heavier. The thicker sole helps ease the strain on long routes, but doesn’t allow for a precise foothold on rocky surfaces. On top of that, hiking shoes usually have a fairly deep tread, which also impairs precision. Because of this, as well as their comparatively high dead weight, hiking boots don’t actually make for good approach shoes. Approach shoes, on the other hand, are not comfortable enough to work for long distances because their sole is so stiff. That’s why picking the right shoe for each activity is key. Find out more about how to choose the right pair for your needs in our dedicated guide to hiking shoes.
Approach shoes vs. climbing shoes
While approach shoes are great for casual climbing activities, they still don’t offer the same level of precision and sensitivity as climbing shoes. Climbing shoes fit around your foot like a sleeve, and have a strongly pronounced asymmetrical shape and pointed toe to provide maximum grip on the smallest ledges. Approach shoes are more comfortable to wear and come with a looser fit, which makes them great for longer stretches of hiking – not so much for challenging and demanding climbing routes. When climbing, definitely put on the appropriate climbing shoes and stow away your approach shoes in your climbing backpack ↗. Similarly, you should only wear climbing shoes when starting your climbing route because they are way too stiff for comfortable walking. In short: Both types of shoes perfectly complement each other.
The sole of approach shoes
The sole is the key piece of approach shoes, ensuring the necessary grip. It should be made out of a special rubber composite, ideally featuring a high percentage of natural rubber. This will give you a secure footing even on smooth and slippery rocks, regardless of weather conditions. They should have a low tread, as deep lugs will only get in the way when navigating narrow holds and ledges. A napped tread on the heel area and midfoot, as well as a completely smooth area around the toes make for the perfect compromise to ensure you’ll enjoy precise contact on wooded trails and via ferratas with small holds.Â
When choosing the flex, i.e. the level of stiffness of the sole, your personal preferences are the most important factor. The sole needs to be stiff enough to ensure your foot doesn’t buckle on narrow holds, yet flexible enough to allow you to walk comfortably on flat paths. A lower flex means the sole is very stiff, providing stability during easy passages. Shoes with a high flex give you a more comfortable feel when rolling over your foot on flat terrain. So definitely have a think about which aspect is more important to you. Approach shoes typically have a much lower flex than hiking shoes or trail running shoes ↗.
The upper material of approach shoes
Approach shoes should be sturdy and resilient – and made to last. As they are in direct contact with rock and stone, robust materials are key to prevent tearing and premature wear-and-tear. Most approach shoes are made out of flexible, breathable synthetics. This type of textile is hardwearing, while also providing precise lacing to perfectly fit the shape of your foot. Another important feature is a treadless rubber coating in the toe area, commonly referred to as climbing zone. This not only increases your grip, but also the lifespan of the shoe.
Moreover, approach shoes should work in all types of weather conditions, so an integrated protection against moisture and water is something that should be on your checklist. Shoes with GORE-TEX membrane will keep your feet dry and cozy, even in a downpour. The material is also breathable and effectively wicks away sweat. To find out more, check out our in-depth guide to GORE-TEX.
Finding the perfect fit
When choosing hiking shoes, it’s best to go a size bigger, whereas you should pick a smaller size for your climbing shoes. So, what does that mean for approach shoes? As you’re using them both for walking/hiking and the occasional bit of climbing on the way to your actual destination, they should be neither too big nor too small, and ideally fit like a glove. The shoe should fit tightly without pinching, and there should be enough space for your toes, but without compromising on a secure foothold – this could increase your risk of slipping. Thanks to the make-up of the lacing, you’ll actually be able to adjust the shoe to perfectly fit the shape of your foot. To ensure the right fit, always try your approach shoes before making a purchase.Â
Tips for trying on shoes
The right timing: It’s best to try shoes in the afternoon or evening because your feet will slightly swell up during the day – just like on a climbing tour.
Wear the right socks: Try shoes with the socks you’ll actually wear for the approach – the best way to make sure your shoes will fit perfectly when put to the ultimate test.
Try out the lacing: Take the time to lace your shoes all the way up to see how well they adjust to the shape of your foot.
Check the fit: Make sure you leave enough space for your toes, that your heel doesn’t move around inside the shoe, and that the shoes don’t pinch.
Move around: Walk a couple of steps and – if possible – test the shoes on an incline – that way you can make sure they’ll fit right in all situations.
Moving on up!
With our handy tips on what to look out for when choosing approach shoes, you’re all set to start the hunt for your perfect pair. Just don’t lose sight of the kinds of tours and activities you’ve got planned when making your choice, as that determines the requirements your new shoes will have to meet. Want more insights into outdoor equipment? Our Mammut Stories & Guides ↗ are packed with plenty of handy tips on how to pick the perfect trail running shoes ↗, what to wear for outdoor climbing and much more.